Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Busser, MB&F has garnered a strong following among collectors over the last two decades, and the Geneva-based watchmaker is now regarded as one of the world’s top independent brands. Synonymous with an inherently modern and mechanically-focused aesthetic, MB&F also partners with other entities from the watch industry to create unique limited-edition timepieces, and the brand’s name stands for “Maximilian Busser and Friends” in recognition of its collaborative spirit. With a total output of only a few hundred watches per year and prices that routinely reach well into the six-figure territory, MB&F is the definition of a high-end boutique manufacturer, although the company’s offerings span a remarkably diverse assortment of designs, and below we take a look at the top 10 MB&F watches for collectors.
MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement
Unlike MB&F’s “Horological Machines” collection, which serves as a home for the brand’s most avant-garde creations, its “Legacy Machines” models feature significantly more traditional case profiles that re-imagine what an MB&F watch might have looked like if the brand existed in the 19th century. Originally introduced in 2017 as the fourth model from the Legacy Machines series, the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement can be found with either a white gold or titanium case and with the option of five different dial colors. Compared to other models from the brand’s Legacy Machines collection, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement is hardly MB&F’s most complex offering, although it is also arguably one of its most pared-back and approachable models, which has made it a consistent favorite among collectors.
Similar to other watches from MB&F’s Legacy Machines collection, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement proudly showcases its balance wheel on the dial side of its display. However, the “Split Escapement” name of the model comes from the fact that its anchor and escape wheel are mounted below the dial to keep the visual emphasis on its trio of displays and the oversized balance wheel that is suspended directly in the center below a large sculptural V-shaped bridge. As one of the least complex models from MB&F’s modern catalog, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement is also one of its more attainable offerings. However, the five different colorways were each produced as limited editions of either 18 or 33 examples, and while open-market prices for the least expensive models start at approximately $75,000, the titanium version can trade hands for prices up to $120,000.
MB&F Horological Machine 6 Space Pirate HM6
In contrast to MB&F’s Legacy Machines series, the brand’s Horological Machines collection is where you will find all of its most unconventional designs, and ranking fairly high on the spectrum of atypical case profiles is the MB&F Horological Machine 6 (HM6) “Space Pirate” that first appeared in 2014 as a limited edition of 50 examples. In total, MB&F produced 100 HM6 watches, and while the original 50-piece titanium model from 2014 is the quintessential “Space Pirate” watch, the brand also created small-batch limited editions with stainless steel or 18k red gold cases, plus the HM6 Sapphire Vision and HM6 Alien Nation models, which featured cases crafted from transparent sapphire.
Rather than consisting of a case surrounding a dial like a traditional wristwatch, the MB&F HM6 “Space Pirate” features a retro-futuristic biomorphic case with five small sapphire domes that display the time or showcase key components of the movement. While the two domes on the 6 o’clock side of the watch track the minutes and hours, the central dome reveals a flying tourbillon, and the upper two domes reveal the HM6’s signature spinning turbines, which are mechanically linked to the oscillating weight and rotate whenever the movement’s automatic winding mechanism is engaged. Open-market prices for the titanium version of the MB&F Horological Machine 6 “Space Pirate” typically start at just under $200,000, although prices for the HM6 Alien Nation(which was produced as a limited edition of four examples that were all purchased by a single collector) would be well over half a million dollars.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual
First introduced in 2015, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual pairs the brand’s signature deconstructed mechanical aesthetic with one of horology’s most prestigious complications. Similar to other models from MB&F’s Legacy Machines collection, the Legacy Machine Perpetual features its balance wheel suspended on the dial side of its display, while the time is represented by a small sub-dial at the 12 o’clock location. However, rather than only showcasing its escapement above the dial, the Legacy Machine Perpetual also places the mechanics of its calendar displays above the dial’s surface, and rather than just offering a skeletonized appearance, the movement inside the Legacy Machine Perpetual is a highly architectural structure that incorporates the dial of the watch into the middle of its construction.
As one of the most famous models from the brand’s Legacy Machines collection, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual has been produced in a variety of different materials and colorways throughout the years, and you will find examples with cases crafted from stainless steel, all three shades of 18k gold (yellow, red, and white), platinum, titanium, and even palladium. Additionally, the fundamental concept of this fan-favorite model also serves as the foundation for the brand’s Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, which is the sports watch equivalent crafted from either titanium or zirconium that features a shock-absorbing movement ring and additional water resistance. Open market prices for the least expensive MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual watches start at approximately $150,000, although it is not uncommon to see certain rare variants or their EVO siblings trade hands for values more than $200,000.
MB&F Horological Machine 7 Aquapod HM7
Representing the seventh installment in the brand’s Horological Machines series of timepieces, the MB&F Horological Machine 7 “Aquapod” was first introduced in 2017, and it features a futuristic diver-style case inspired by the shape of a jellyfish. Sitting in the center of the MB&F HM7’s round middle case is a flying tourbillon, which is surrounded by concentric discs that display the time. However, rather than having its rotating timing bezel integrated into the top of the middle case like most watches, the HM7 “Aquapod” has its ring-shaped external bezel assembly connected to its lower lug structure, and this gives it the unique appearance of floating around the outer perimeter of the watch.
While the MB&F Horological Machine 7 originally debuted in the form of a titanium model with a blue bezel and an 18k red gold version fitted with a black bezel, a green-bezel version in titanium joined the catalog the following year in 2018, and a platinum HM7 “Aquapod” with a red bezel was launched one year later in 2019. With that in mind, all four of MB&F’s Horological Machine 7 models were created as limited editions. The 18k red gold version is the most plentiful at 66 examples, while the green-bezel titanium model is the next most common at 50 pieces. Meanwhile, there are 33 examples of the original titanium HM7 fitted with a blue bezel, and the red-bezel platinum version is the rarest at 25 pieces. On the open market, the titanium models are typically the least expensive with prices that start at approximately $85,000, while the platinum MB&F “Aquapod” is the most expensive among the series, and it trades hands for values up to $150,000.
MB&F Horological Machine 3 “MoonMachine” HM3
While MB&F’s third Horological Machine first appeared in 2009, the MB&F HM3 “MoonMachine” is a 2012 collaboration between the Geneva-based brand and the Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, who is celebrated within the collecting community for his distinct moonphase displays. Based upon MB&F’s HM3 “Frog” model, the Horological Machine 3 “MoonMachine” swaps out the ring-shaped date display of the standard HM3 for a moonphase complication with Sarpaneva’s signature grimacing moon character above a rotor that depicts a star-filled sky. Collaborations are a natural part of MB&F’s brand identity, and the HM3 “MoonMachine” represents a true blend of MB&F and Sarpaneva, both from an aesthetic and functional standpoint.
Similar to many of MB&F’s most coveted timepiece designs, the HM3 “MoonMachine” was produced as a small-batch offering, which consisted of three different models that were each produced as a limited edition of 18 examples. In addition to a titanium model with a pale blue colorway and an 18k red gold version with dark gray accents, there is also an alternate titanium model with a black DLC-coated case that features a darker blue shade of blue for the sky-themed rotor that serves as the backdrop of its moonphase display. Given that the MB&F Horological Machine 3 “MoonMachine” debuted over a decade ago and was produced in very limited numbers, rarely do examples surface on the secondary market, although open-market prices start at just over $100,000 and increase from there, depending on the specific model and its overall condition.
MB&F Horological Machine 11 Architect HM11
Launched in 2023 as a duo of 25-piece limited editions in titanium with either blue or rose gold dials, the MB&F Horological Machine 11 “Architect” represents the eleventh model from the brand’s Horological Machines series, and it features a unique case profile that is intended to be reminiscent of a tiny futuristic building. Similar to the brand’s HM6 “Space Pirate” watch, the HM11 “Architect” showcases a flying tourbillon in the center of its structure with four small displays located around its perimeter. However, while one of the displays features a dial for the time and another serves as a power reserve indicator, the third display is a mechanical temperature gauge, and the fourth houses the crown for the watch, which features a transparent sapphire display window that offers an additional view of the internal movement.
Rather unusually, the entire case of the MB&F HM11 “Architect” rotates above the lower structure that forms its lugs, and this operation is also linked to the winding system, which means that turning the watch’s case manually winds its internal movement. Unlike other MB&F watches that have been offered in multiple different materials and colorways throughout the years, the Horological Machine 11 “Architect” is still a relatively new model, and as of October 2024, MB&F has only produced a total of 50 HM11 watches, which exclusively consist of the two titanium limited editions that were part of its inaugural launch in 2023. While the official retail price of the MB&F Horological Machine 11 “Architect” was $230,000, none of the 50 examples have been publicly listed for sale on the secondary market, which means that an accurate value for the open-market price of HM11 watches has yet to be determined.
MB&F Legacy Machine LMX
Originally introduced in 2021 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Legacy Machines collection, the MB&F Legacy Machine LMX reimagines the very first Legacy Machine watch in an entirely more elevated overall package. While the aesthetic connection between the original MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 and the Legacy Machine LMX is immediately apparent, everything has been reimagined in a more sculptural and three-dimensional format. Joining the escapement on the dial side of the watch are a pair of inclined sub-dials that offer access to the time in two different locations, and the linear power reserve of the inaugural Legacy Machines model has been replaced by a spherical power reserve indicator with additional day markings at the 12 o’clock location.
Since the MB&F Legacy Machine LMX’s two time-telling dials operate entirely independently with dedicated crowns located on the side of the case, the watch is capable of tracking timezones that operate on a partial-hour offset. Additionally, since adjustment of one display does not affect the other, owners can reset one of the time-telling dials to noon and use it as a simple way to measure elapsed time. MB&F Legacy Machine LMX watches can be found with cases crafted from stainless steel, 18k red gold, titanium, or 18k white gold, and each version features a different color for its dial. However, the four MB&F LMX models were all produced as small-batch limited editions with production numbers ranging between 15 and 33 examples, and all four versions only account for a total of 99 watches. Just as you would expect, prices differ between the four models, and MB&F Legacy Machine LMX watches typically trade hands for anywhere between $115,000 and $150,000 on the open market.
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO
Launched in 2022 as the brand’s very first chronograph, the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO features a case crafted from zirconium, and it easily ranks among the most technologically impressive models from the Legacy Machines collection. Similar to other watches from MB&F’s EVO lineup of sports models, the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO features a modernized expression of the collection’s case profile, along with a shock-absorbing mounting ring for the movement and increased levels of water resistance. Additionally, just like its siblings from the Legacy Machines collection, the movement powering the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO is a three-dimensional structure with components appearing above the dial’s surface to create an intricate and highly cohesive appearance.
With that in mind, rather than being a standard chronograph, the MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO features two separate chronograph complications that are mechanically connected with an innovative “Twinverter” switch. The two chronographs can operate entirely independently with their own dedicated set of pushers located on either side of the case. However, the Twinverter switch will simultaneously invert the running status of both chronographs, which allows users to easily start or stop them at the same time, or perfectly stop one and start the other for seamless measurement of sequential events. Available with either a black or orange dial, prices for MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO watches start at approximately $180,000, and while neither colorway is a limited edition, the orange version typically commands a premium when it trades hands on the secondary market.
MB&F Horological Machine 9 Sapphire Vision HM9
Originally presented in 2018 as the ninth model in the brand’s Horological Machines series, the HM9 “Flow” is arguably the single most unconventional wristwatch that MB&F has put forward, and it features a striking oblong rocket-shaped case, which houses a movement with two fully independent balance wheels that drive the hands through a planetary differential. With that in mind, the HM9 series received a significant update in 2021, and the MB&F Horological Machine 9 Sapphire Vision is the alternate version of the HM9 that features a case crafted from transparent sapphire framed in 18k gold. Unlike the original Horological Machine 9 models that featured cases that very much offered the appearance of a retro-futuristic rocket, the HM9 Sapphire Vision watches feature a slightly more abstract rendition of a rocket-shaped profile, and their cases are made from dramatically curved pieces of clear sapphire that are set within a framework of either red, white, or yellow gold.
In total, there have been six different versions of the MB&F Horological Machine 9 Sapphire Vision, and each one features a different color of finishing on the plates and bridges of its movement. Three of the six HM9 Sapphire Vision models feature white gold case components, while two are constructed from red gold, and one features a yellow gold case framework paired with a vibrant shade of green on the bridges of its movement. Despite there being six different MB&F Horological Machine 9 Sapphire Vision watches, each one was produced as a limited edition of just five examples, and the most recently released versions were accompanied by an official retail price of $490,000, which means that available HM9 Sapphire Vision watches would likely trade hands for values in excess of half a million dollars on the open market.
MB&F Horological Machine 10 Bulldog HM10
As the tenth model in the brand’s Horological Machines series, the MB&F HM10 “Bulldog” was first introduced in 2020, and it offers a more lighthearted and playful expression of an ultra-complex timepiece. Based upon a fluid and oblong case, the MB&F Horological Machine 10 features a highly organic profile, and the watch gets its “Bulldog” name from its slight resemblance to a stout four-legged animal. A heavily domed sapphire crystal appears on one end of the case to form the head of the bulldog, and this houses the movement’s escapement and two rotating hemispherical structures that display the time. Meanwhile, four long articulating lugs extend from the case to create the legs of the animal, and while the MB&F HM10 “Bulldog” is undeniably highly impressive from a technological standpoint, it also resembles a tiny metallic animal hugging your wrist.
When the MB&F Horological Machine 10 “Bulldog” first debuted in 2020, it was offered in either titanium or a two-tone configuration that paired an 18k red gold case with titanium lugs. However, MB&F also created a trio of “Dark Bulldog” HM10 watches in 2022 that were produced as limited editions of 8 examples each and fitted with either black, red, or blue time-telling hemispherical structures. Additionally, the MB&F HM10 also served as the blueprint for the brand’s offering for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction, and MB&F created a one-of-a-kind HM10 watch designed to look like a panda bear. The MB&F HM10 “Bulldog” has always been a six-figure watch, and even back when the model first debuted in 2020, the least expensive version had a retail price of $105,000. However, the HM10 has since been discontinued, which has resulted in premiums on the secondary market, and while open-market prices still start at just over six figures, the piece-unique Panda version created for Only Watch 2021 sold for a whopping CHF 620,000.