Gold numerals at six and nine mean steel is present in the case. At 36 mm a stone-set dial on the two-tone constructions receives Roman numerals in gold at those two positions, set with diamonds, while the solid gold and platinum cases at the same size take baguette-cut stones there instead. The treatment therefore identifies the construction before anything else about the watch is known, in the same way the bracelet and the bezel do elsewhere in the collection. This variant carries that arrangement on an olive green ground, in a 36 mm case of steel and yellow gold, under a fluted bezel, on an Oyster bracelet.
An olive dial is the strongest ground on this reference and the markers are pitched against it. Green is dark enough to hold applied gold with real contrast and saturated enough that a fully set surface would be wasted on it, since the stones would compete with the ground rather than sitting on it. Marking only six and nine solves that. The two numerals are gold, set with stones, and noticeably brighter than the applied markers at the other hours, so the dial has two focal points and a large uninterrupted field of green between them. The Oyster below is the flattest bracelet the collection makes, broad three-piece links carrying a single sweep of light with nothing small-scale on them, which leaves the dial as the only place on the watch where anything is happening. The gold of the construction sits in the fluted bezel alone, since fluting is never cut into steel, and the case sides, lugs and bracelet are steel. The date sits at three under its magnifying lens. The pairing also settles how the watch reads in the two places it will be seen. At arm length the green registers and the gold numerals do not resolve, so the piece looks like a plain dark-dialed steel watch with a gold bezel. Close up the two set positions separate from the applied markers and the dial shows that it is worked rather than plain. That order of disclosure is the reverse of a fully set dial, which announces itself immediately and has nothing further to show, and it is the strongest practical argument for the two-numeral treatment over the ring of settings the smaller cases receive.
At this size the movement is self-winding and holds roughly 70 hours off the wrist, against close to 55 in the 28 and 31 mm cases, and the whole of that difference is barrel volume in a physically larger movement. The gap is the practical one between a watch that survives a weekend in a drawer and one that does not. Nothing else about the function set changes with the case: hours, minutes, seconds and a date that jumps in a single instant at midnight rather than easing into position across the surrounding hour, which is the only behavior a magnified aperture tolerates. The rotor winds the movement as the wrist moves, the crown screws home when the watch is not being set, and a handful of date corrections across a year is the sum of what it requires. The extra volume at this size also explains why the treatment could be partial. A 28 mm dial plate carrying settings at every hour position is worked to its limit and the ring has to be complete because there is no room to make anything of the gaps. A 36 mm plate has enough surface that two marked positions and a field of unmarked ground read as a composition rather than as a dial missing most of its markers, and the arrangement only becomes available once the case is large enough to support it.
The ground behaves in two distinct ways depending on which form is chosen. Set with diamonds, olive green is warm-locked, appearing on Everose at 28 mm and on yellow at 31 and 36 mm and on no cool case at any size. Plain, it begins at 36 mm and by 40 mm has reached white gold and platinum. The two overlap at one diameter only, this one, on the steel and yellow gold construction, which is where a buyer can hold both versions of the ground against each other on the same watch. Below this size the set form is the only olive available and above it the plain form is, so the choice presented here exists nowhere else in the collection. The asymmetry between the two forms deserves stating carefully, because it runs against the usual reading. A set dial is normally understood as the more exclusive version of a ground, available wherever the plain one is and then some. On olive green the reverse holds: the set form is confined to warm cases and stops at 36 mm, while the plain form reaches white gold and platinum and continues to 41. Adding stones narrows the ground rather than extending it. The same pattern appeared with dark grey and pink, where an identical intervention bought different permissions, and it is a reminder that a setting is a catalogue decision here as much as a decorative one.
The case for this configuration is that it puts a genuinely distinctive ground in the most restrained presentation available to it. The green does the work, two gold numerals give the dial structure, and everything else on the watch is flat steel. Collectors who choose it usually want a colored dial that reads as considered rather than decorative, and often prefer the Oyster because it refuses to add anything of its own. Among the arrangements this reference offers it is the one with the most character on the dial and the least anywhere else, and the combination is available at this diameter and this construction and nowhere further up or down the range. It is also the variant most easily misjudged from a specification, which lists an olive dial set with diamonds and gives no indication that the stones are confined to two numerals, that the ground is otherwise open, or that the same description would mean baguette cuts on a solid gold case of the same diameter.
