Cartier Tank Louis LM WGTA0093 Yellow Gold Red Dial (2022)

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By Cartier

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The Cartier Tank occupies a foundational position in watchmaking as one of the most influential designs ever conceived — created by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the geometric form of the Renault FT-17 tanks deployed during the Great War. Reference WGTA0093 arrived at Watches & Wonders 2022 as part of a bold monochrome trilogy alongside anthracite and black dial siblings, distinguished here by red — long identified as Cartier's signature color. The dial departs deliberately from convention: multiple crimson hues arranged in rows form rectangles across the surface, with dark Roman numerals appearing only at the cardinal positions of twelve, three, six, and nine, creating one of the most graphically arresting Tank interpretations in the modern collection.

The 33.7 x 25.5mm case in 18-karat yellow gold measures just 6.6mm thick, distinguished by the signature parallel brancards and beaded yellow gold crown set with a sapphire cabochon. The red dial pairs its layered geometric composition with gold sword-shaped hands — departing from the traditional blued steel — for a fully tonal warmth against the gold case. The hand-wound in-house Caliber 1917 MC drives the timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve, completed by a semi-matte red alligator leather strap with yellow gold ardillon buckle.

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The WGTA0093's most immediately distinctive quality — the graphical red lacquered dial whose variety of crimson hues are arranged in rows that form nested rectangles across the dial surface — departs from every convention of the Tank Louis Cartier's standard production in a way that rewards description before explanation. The standard Tank Louis Cartier dial is a study in formal restraint: a single silvered or lacquered surface, Roman numerals at the four cardinal positions, a railway minute track, and the Cartier signature. The WGTA0093's red dial does something different: the red lacquer is applied not as a flat field but as a layered geometric composition, the crimson hues varying across the dial's surface in rows of slight tonal variation that together produce the rectangular pattern that the Loupe This auction catalog captures as "a variety of crimson hues arranged in rows that combine to form rectangles around the dial." This geometric lacquer arrangement is the design element that most directly connects the WGTA0093 to the Art Deco era whose formal vocabulary the Tank Louis Cartier has always inhabited: the nested rectangle pattern is the period's emblematic geometric motif, the rectangular case's own proportions echoed in the dial's interior geometric program, the watch's outer form and inner surface in specific formal conversation.

The gold sword-shaped hands — departing from the blued-steel hands of the standard Tank Louis Cartier production, including the rose-gold WGTA0058 described elsewhere in this collection — are the design decision whose consequence for the WGTA0093's overall composition is the most significant chromatic choice Cartier made in specifying this reference. Blued-steel hands on a red dial would have introduced a third chromatic element — the blue-violet of thermally oxidized steel — into a composition already committed to the warm-on-warm program of yellow gold case and red lacquered dial. The gold hands maintain the entirely warm composition: yellow gold case, red lacquer dial, gold sword hands, the composition's temperature consistent across every metallic element. Red and yellow gold are adjacent on the warm spectrum — red's orange-component connecting to yellow gold's own warm color family — and the gold hands' presence against the red dial ground produces the specific warm-on-warm tonal accord that the cool counterpoint of blued steel would have interrupted. The choice of gold hands over blued steel is, in this reading, not a departure from the Tank's hand convention but an argument that the WGTA0093's specific dial color makes a different convention appropriate.

The large Roman numerals at the four cardinal positions — XII, III, VI, IX — against the red geometric lacquer ground are in a darker tone, their printing distinguished from the surrounding red by the tonal difference between the numeral pigment and the dial's lacquer hue rather than by any contrasting color. Against the dial's crimson geometric pattern, these dark Roman numerals provide the time-reading infrastructure whose legibility depends on the tonal contrast between the dark numerals and the red ground rather than on the chromatic contrast (white or black on a neutral or dark ground) that most dial-and-numeral combinations use. The specific tonal relationship — dark crimson numerals against the varying crimson field of the geometric pattern — requires more deliberate reading attention than a high-contrast white-on-dark or black-on-white numeral arrangement, and this requirement is consistent with the Tank Louis Cartier's general approach to legibility: a watch designed for occasions where the watch is checked with attention rather than glanced at in motion.

The yellow gold case at 33.7 by 25.5 millimeters and 6.6 millimeters in height maintains the Tank Louis Cartier's specific proportions with the material consistency — all yellow gold, every element warm — that the all-gold construction of the WGTA0093 provides. The brancards — the vertical case extensions that flank the dial, their specific width and height relationship one of the Tank Louis Cartier's most carefully calibrated design dimensions — are in yellow gold consistent with the case body. The beaded yellow gold crown set with a blue sapphire cabochon provides the one cool element in the all-warm case exterior: the sapphire's blue against the yellow gold crown's warm metal. The blue sapphire cabochon in the crown is, in the WGTA0093's all-warm composition, the single chromatic counterpoint to the entire warm program — the crown's stone providing the cool accent that the gold hands' departure from blued-steel removes from the dial, the cool element displaced from the hands to the crown.

The movement is Calibre 1917 MC, Cartier's manufacture hand-wound caliber at 12.9 by 16.4 millimeters, 19 jewels, 3 hertz operating frequency, and 38 hours of power reserve. The caliber's thin shaped profile — the movement machined to the non-standard dimensions required by the Tank Louis Cartier's rectangular case rather than to the round dimensions of a standard round-movement-in-round-case arrangement — is the enabling condition for the 6.6-millimeter case height. The manual-winding requirement maintains the physical interaction between watch and wearer that the hand-wound tradition provides: the daily or alternate-day engagement with the crown's winding rotation a direct confirmation of the mechanical movement's operation. Mineral crystal covers the dial; a solid gold caseback closes the movement from the rear without exhibition. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The semi-matte red alligator leather strap with 18-karat yellow gold ardillon buckle completes the WGTA0093's all-warm program at the wrist: the red leather whose tone is matched to the dial's own red lacquer program, the yellow gold buckle consistent with the case metal. The strap's red is the watch's compositional extension to the wrist — the same red that the dial's geometric pattern occupies carried in the leather's natural dye, the case's warm yellow gold continuing to the buckle's warm yellow gold. Three warm elements at three distinct positions — red strap, yellow gold case, red dial — produce the composition's complete wearing character: a watch in which the dominant chromatic register is warm throughout, the single cool departure being the crown's sapphire cabochon.

The WGTA0093's position in the Tank Louis Cartier family is as the reference that most directly engages with the watch's Art Deco geometric heritage through the dial program rather than through the case form alone. The standard Tank Louis Cartier declares its Art Deco affiliation through its case proportions, its brancards, and its Roman numeral typography, leaving the dial surface as a studied neutral. The WGTA0093 takes the additional step of introducing the Art Deco geometric vocabulary into the dial itself — the nested rectangle pattern whose origin is in the period's architectural and decorative arts — producing a Tank whose inner surface and outer form are speaking in the same formal language simultaneously.

Reference Number
WGTA0093
Model Family
Tank
Movement
Manual Winding
Case Material
Yellow Gold
Bracelet Material
Alligator Strap
Dial
Red
Case Dimension
34mm
Year
2022
Condition
Pre-Owned (Very Good)
Box & Papers
Original Box, Original Papers

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