Cartier Tank Cintree WGTA0025 Rose Gold Black Dial (2023)

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By Cartier

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The Cartier Tank Cintrée occupies an esteemed place in Cartier's catalog as one of the very earliest Tank derivatives, introduced by Louis Cartier in 1921 — just four years after the original 1917 design. Its defining innovation was the elegantly elongated rectangular case with a gentle convex curve following the contour of the wrist, the French word "cintrée" meaning "arched." Vintage Tank Cintrées from the 1920s and 1930s remain among the most coveted Cartier collectibles, frequently commanding premium auction results. Reference WGTA0025 represents the contemporary revival in 18-karat rose gold with a vintage-inspired black sunburst dial, faithful to the spirit of the original while drawing on more than a century of refinement of one of watchmaking's most distinctive rectangular designs.

The elongated case measures 46.3 x 23 x 6.9mm in 18-karat rose gold, distinguished by parallel side brancards with screws, hooded lugs, and the signature convex curvature, completed by a beaded rose gold crown set with a sapphire cabochon. The black sunburst dial carries rose gold sword-shaped hands, white Arabic numerals at twelve and six, baton indices, and a railway-style inner scale framing the Cartier signature. The hand-wound Caliber 8971 MC delivers 38 hours of reserve, completed by a semi-matte dark grey alligator strap with rose gold ardillon buckle.

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The Tank Cintrée is the Tank reference that most clearly demonstrates the distance the design can travel from its original brief while remaining unmistakably itself. Louis Cartier's 1917 Tank was a rectangular case of relatively balanced proportions — the width and length in a relationship that, while elongated compared to a round case, remained within the proportions of an instrument rather than a bracelet. The Cintrée — "cintrée" being the French architectural term for a curved or arched form — departs from these balanced proportions in the direction of maximum elongation: at 46.3 by 23 millimeters, the Cintrée's length-to-width ratio produces a case whose dimensions place it closer to an Art Deco bracelet in its formal register than to any conventional wristwatch proportion. The case's curve — the gentle bow of the caseback's form that follows the wrist's own curvature, the "cintrée" element whose presence makes the extreme elongation wearable rather than architecturally insistent — is the specific design element that transforms the abstract formal proposition (this elongated rectangle) into a worn object (a watch that conforms to the wrist). Without the curve, the Cintrée would be architecturally interesting but uncomfortable. With it, the extreme elongation is absorbed into the wrist's own contour and the watch disappears against the skin with the specific intimacy that characterizes the finest elongated case designs in the history of the form.

The case proportions at 46.3 by 23 millimeters require a specific approach to time-reading that the more balanced Tank proportions do not. The Arabic numerals at six and twelve — rather than Roman numerals at all twelve positions as in the Tank Louis Cartier — are the specific Cintrée dial convention whose origin is practical rather than decorative: the Cintrée's extreme elongation reduces the available width at the six and twelve positions to dimensions where full Roman numerals would be cramped, and the Arabic numeral's more compact form at these positions provides the legibility that the proportional constraints require. The baton indices at the remaining ten positions — their length appropriate to the space between the narrow case's lateral margins — complete the hour-marking architecture. The inner railway-style minute scale provides the sub-hour legibility around the chapter ring's inner circumference. Against the black dial, the white-tone baton indices and the Arabic numerals at six and twelve read with the high-contrast clarity that dark-on-light (indices) against a dark ground provides through the luminous treatment on both the indices and the gold-finish sword-shaped hands.

The black dial is the WGTA0025's most formally assertive chromatic choice and the one whose relationship with the rose gold case is the most visually immediate. Rose gold's warm pinkish tone against black — the maximum tonal contrast available within the warm-and-neutral spectrum — produces a watch whose chromatic argument is the warmth of the precious metal against the absorption of the black dial ground, the warm case framing a surface of complete dark depth. The gold-finish sword-shaped hands provide the warm material confirmation at the dial's moving elements: not blued steel, whose cool tone would moderate the warm-on-dark composition, but gold-finish hands whose warm tone is continuous with the case's rose gold character. The combination — black dial, rose gold case, gold hands — is the WGTA0025's specific tonal program: three warm-or-dark elements, the black providing the depth that amplifies the gold's warmth, the gold providing the warmth that makes the black's depth more present.

The beaded rose gold crown set with a sapphire cabochon at the case's right flank — the Cintrée's crown positioned at the case's side in the manner of the Tank family's standard crown placement — provides the case's single cool chromatic accent: the sapphire's blue against the rose gold's warm pinkish surface. The hooded lugs — the Cintrée's specific lug design in which the brancards extend beyond the dial's top and bottom edges in a form that creates the case's characteristic hooded profile — are in rose gold, their specific geometry the visual element that most directly links the Cintrée's extreme elongation to the Tank family's shared design vocabulary of the brancard. The case's four side screws, visible at the case's lateral faces, are a Cintrée-specific detail whose presence in the slender case sides reflects the case construction's requirement for the screws that secure the case components in a case whose width provides limited material for conventional case-back snapping or screwing.

The Calibre 8971 MC is the manually wound movement that powers the WGTA0025 in the form whose basis is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846, a movement whose lineage connects the Cintrée to the historic relationship between Cartier and JLC that has produced movements for Cartier's case designs across multiple decades. The 8971 MC's 18 jewels, 3 hertz operating frequency, and 38-hour power reserve from full manual wind are appropriate to a watch whose case dimensions and design context — the elongated precious metal Art Deco case — require a movement whose shaped dimensions fit the Cintrée's unusually narrow case. The mineral crystal covers the dial; a solid caseback engraved with the Tank Cintrée's specific signatures ("CARTIER – MECHANIQUE – WATER RESISTANT – SWISS MADE," hallmarks, and serial number) closes the case from the rear. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The semi-matte dark grey alligator strap with 14-millimeter ardillon buckle in 18-karat rose gold is the strap specification whose specific grey tone — between charcoal and medium grey, neither the black of the dial nor the warm rose gold of the case — is the choice that provides compositional temperature mediation: the grey strap's cool-neutral temperature sitting between the warm rose gold case and the black dial's dark absorption, the strap's tone occupying the middle position in the warm-to-dark-to-cool spectrum that the case-dial-strap composition produces. Water resistance is 30 meters.

The WGTA0025's secondary market position — at approximately $18,000 to $25,000 across documented transactions — reflects the Cintrée's position as the Tank reference whose extreme proportional departure from the standard Tank format appeals most specifically to the collector whose engagement with the Tank is through its Art Deco formal vocabulary rather than through its historical significance alone. The Cintrée's 46.3 by 23 millimeter proportions are the most assertive formal statement available in the current Tank family, and the rose gold black dial configuration makes that statement in the warmest and most chromatic form the current Cintrée production offers. Introduced at SIHH 2018 as a limited edition of 50 examples before entering regular production, the reference's collector recognition has been consistent since its introduction.

Reference Number
WGTA0025
Model Family
Tank
Movement
Manual Winding
Case Material
Rose Gold
Bracelet Material
Alligator Strap
Dial
Black
Case Dimension
46mm
Year
2023
Condition
Pre-Owned (Very Good)
Box & Papers
Original Box, Original Papers

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