First launched in 1956 and exclusively crafted from either solid gold or platinum, the Rolex Day-Date is the famous Swiss manufacturer’s flagship model, and it is universally recognized as being synonymous with success and luxury. While the core blueprint of the Day-Date has remained largely unchanged since its inception, the collection frequently serves as Rolex’s creative playground and a wide variety of models have been produced throughout the years, with many of the more unusual variations only being offered for relatively short periods of time. Given the incredible diversity among the greater Day-Date collection, not all versions are considered equal, and here are the top 10 Rolex Day-Date watches for collectors in 2024.
Rolex Day-Date 'Emoji Puzzle'
Right now, the hottest Rolex Day-Date is also one of the hardest to find, as it isn’t even part of the brand’s official catalog. Launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Rolex Day-Date 'Emoji Puzzle’ watches are all among the brand’s “off-catalog” offerings, which means that you won’t find them anywhere on Rolex’s website, and they are exclusively reserved for the company’s top VIP customers. Available in either 18k white, yellow, or Everose gold, the Rolex Day-Date 'Emoji Puzzle’ models are essentially regular Day-Date 36 watches that are fitted with incredibly special and whimsical dials that are truly unlike anything else that Rolex has ever put forward.
Created using champlevé enamel, the dials fitted to the Rolex Day-Date 'Emoji Puzzle’ watches feature a multicolored puzzle-piece motif throughout their surfaces, with rainbow baguette sapphires serving as their hour markers. Additionally, rather than having the date and day of the week appear through the two windows in their dials, the Day-Date 'Emoji Puzzle’ models have words such as “love” and “gratitude” printed on their day discs, while 31 different emoji take the place of the date and are magnified through the Cyclops bubble on the crystal. Although there have been a number of outlandish Day-Date watches produced throughout the years, the 'Emoji Puzzle’ models are easily some of the most unusual, and they are produced in extremely small numbers and entirely unavailable to most of the general population.
Rolex Day-Date 228238 Green Roman Dial
When you look at all of the dials that are currently available for the 40mm models from the Rolex Day-Date collection, the bright green lacquer dial with Roman numeral hour markers stands out as one of the more unusual options. Aside from the various diamond-paved and stone dials, nearly all of the other current-production Day-Date dials feature some type of sunburst finish; however, this striking green dial features a smooth and glossy uniform surface with applied Roman numerals in 18k gold. Additionally, you will only find this green lacquer dial fitted to the Day-Date 40 models in yellow gold, and it isn’t available for their white and Everose gold counterparts, nor is it offered for any of the 36mm Day-Date watches.
Green is Rolex’s official company color, although it has only been in recent years that the brand has started to fully embrace it for the dials of its watches. Additionally, while you will now find green Rolex dials with a handful of different appearances, arguably none offer a more accurate representation of Rolex’s company colors than this bright green dial punctuated by yellow gold accents. At the present time, this striking green dial is still available within Rolex’s current-production lineup; however, given that many of the more unusual Day-Date dials are only offered for a handful of years, there is a fairly good chance that this green lacquer dial will not remain a permanent offering within Rolex’s catalog.
Rolex Day-Date 228398TRU Ruby Bezel
Roman numeral dials and gem-set bezels are rather commonplace within the greater Rolex Day-Date collection, although the reference 228398TRU is one of the brand’s “off-catalog” models that takes things in a slightly different direction by featuring bright red baguette-cut rubies set into both its dial and bezel. At its core, the Rolex Day-Date 228398TRU is a 40mm version of the brand’s flagship dual-calendar wristwatch that is crafted from solid 18k yellow gold. However, rather than having a standard fluted bezel or even one that is set with diamonds, the entire bezel on the ref. 228398TRU is adorned with baguette-cut rubies, which instantly sets it apart from the various other gem-set Day-Date watches.
While a ruby bezel isn’t something that you see very often on Rolex watches, the dial fitted to the Rolex Day-Date 228398TRU is also quite special. Crafted from 18k yellow gold to match the case, the entire surface of the dial is paved with diamonds, and its Roman numeral hour markers are assembled from additional baguette-cut rubies. The bold combination of red and gold is one that seldom graces Rolex watches, and the fact that the red accents on this particular model come in the form of rubies makes the reference 228398TRU even more rare and special. Additionally, just like all off-catalog Rolex models, the ruby Day-Date 228398TRU was reserved exclusively for the brand’s VIP customers, and it was never formally offered to the general public or even listed on Rolex’s official website.
Rolex Day-Date Rainbow Dial
One of the more lavish and unusual styles of dials that has been offered for the Rolex Day-Date in recent years is the diamond-paved rainbow dial that the brand currently produces for the 36mm versions of its flagship timepiece. Unapologetically luxurious in both its appearance and execution, this unique style of dial has its entire surface paved with diamonds, and similar to the dial fitted to the ultra-famous “Rainbow Daytona” watches, the “Rainbow Day-Date” dial features a series of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires that take the pace of its hour markers. Additionally, while Rolex makes this unique style of dial available for Day-Date watches in all three different shades of gold, it is exclusively offered for the Day-Date 36 lineup, and there isn’t a rainbow dial option for the larger 40mm models from the collection.
Unlike many of the more fanciful gem-set Rolex watches, the Rainbow Day-Date models are not considered off-catalog pieces, and these multicolored gem-set dials are essentially just ultra-premium options for the brand’s regular 36mm Day-Date series. Consequently, you will find some Rolex Rainbow Day-Date dials fitted to standard configuration watches that have fluted bezels and unadorned President bracelets; however, you will also find these same dials fitted to highly luxurious executions that have diamond-set bezels and President bracelets with diamond-encrusted center links. Compared to the hype surrounding the various Rainbow Daytona watches and the astronomical values that now accompany them, Rolex’s Rainbow Day-Date models are still underrated by comparison, and given that they are already produced in fairly small quantities, you can expect them to become even more difficult to obtain once they are no longer available at a retail level.
Rolex Day-Date 228396TBR Arabic Dial
Rolex Day-Date dials can be found with a variety of different hour markers that range from simple luminous batons to rainbow-colored gemstones. However, some of the more elusive and collectible styles of Day-Date dials are the ones that have Eastern Arabic numerals for their hour markers, which you can only obtain through select authorized retailers and boutiques that are located in the Middle East. While a few different Rolex models can be found with Arabic dials, the Day-Date is arguably the best one to showcase this alternate language, as it features Eastern Arabic numeral hour markers, along with matching Arabic numerals for its date display, and even the day of the week at 12 o’clock is also written in Arabic.
Among all of the current-production models from the greater Rolex Day-Date collection, the 40mm Day-Date 228396TBR sits at the very top of the modern hierarchy, as it is crafted entirely from solid 950 platinum and fitted with a diamond-set bezel. Additionally, rather than having brilliant-cut diamonds set into its bezel like the various 18k gold Day-Date models, the platinum ref. 228396TBR has a bezel set with larger baguette-cut diamonds, and this creates an even greater visual impact on the wrist. While this model already holds the title of being the most premium standard-catalog version of the Day-Date, an ice blue Arabic dial (a color exclusively reserved for Rolex’s platinum watches) completely takes the Day-Date 228396TBR to the next level, and it makes this rare Arabic dial variant one of the most collectible versions of the brand’s iconic statement watch.
Rolex Day-Date 218349 Diamond Dial with Blue Enamel Indexes
Only produced for a handful of years between 2008 and 2015, the discontinued Rolex Day-Date II has a case diameter of 41mm, which makes it one millimeter larger than the current Day-Date 40 models and the biggest version of the Day-Date that Rolex has ever produced. While this detail alone makes all Rolex Day-Date II watches slightly special, some examples can be found with truly unique details, and one of the all-time standouts from this short-lived 41mm series is the 18k white gold Day-Date II ref. 218349, which features a diamond-set bezel paired with a diamond-paved dial that has striking dark blue enamel hour markers.
Since Rolex’s reference numbers do not describe the type of dial that is fitted to the watch, the Day-Date 218349 itself can be found with a variety of different appearances, as this reference number simply denotes an 18k white gold Day-Date II with a diamond-set bezel. However, not all dials are created equal, and a shimmering diamond-paved surface punctuated by dark blue enamel indexes creates a striking and luxurious expression of Rolex’s classic dial layout. While the standard approach to creating a dial with diamonds and enamel would be to have an enamel surface with diamond-set hour markers, this unique Day-Date dial inverts the concept, and the resulting appearance is flat-out beautiful and something that Rolex no longer offers for its current Day-Date models.
Rolex Day-Date 228206 Olive Green Dial
For years, a smooth bezel paired with a President bracelet was often indicative of platinum Day-Date watches because Rolex didn’t offer a platinum version of its signature fluted bezel. However, that changed in 2023 when Rolex updated its platinum Day-Date series by adding a fluted bezel to the lineup and discontinuing the option of a smooth bezel entirely from all sizes of the Day-Date collection. Crafted entirely from solid platinum and featuring a 40mm case with a smooth polished bezel and President bracelet, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 228206 is functionally identical to the current-production platinum Day-Date 40 models, yet it aesthetically represents the final evolution of Rolex’s original vision for its top-of-the-line wristwatch.
Since the reference number itself simply describes a platinum Day-Date 40 with a smooth bezel, examples of the Rolex Day-Date 228206 can be found with a variety of different dials. However, for those who want something a bit different from the ice blue that is typically found on Rolex’s platinum watches, the olive green Roman numeral dial makes a fantastic alternative and a highly versatile way to embrace Rolex’s company color. These days, unless you specifically opt for an ice blue dial, platinum Day-Date watches with fluted bezels look virtually identical to their less-expensive white gold counterparts. However, Rolex never produced a white gold Day-Date 40 with a smooth bezel, which makes the Day-Date ref. 228206 instantly recognizable as being one of the brand’s premier platinum models, even though it doesn’t have an ice blue dial to serve as an obvious indicator of its premium materials.
Rolex Day-Date II 218398 Diamond and Ruby Dial
The short-lived 41mm Day-Date II series represents somewhat of an experimental time for Rolex’s flagship collection, and some of the more premium executions of the model are truly unlike the modern Day-Date 40 watches that Rolex produces today. Just like other Day-Date II models, the 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 218398 also features a slightly larger 41mm case that is characterized by chunkier and less refined proportions. However, the reference 218398 further leans into its larger-than-life spirit with a bezel that is completely covered with vertically-oriented baguette diamonds, along with a champagne-colored dial that features additional baguette-cut diamonds and rubies for its hour makers.
The standard diamond bezels that Rolex uses for the Day-Date collection feature round brilliant-cut diamonds, while the top-of-the-line platinum models receive bezels with larger baguette diamonds. Not only is the bezel on the yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 218398 special because it features baguette-cut diamonds, but the stones themselves are set differently than what you will find on the current-production Rolex watches that also have baguette diamond bezels. On Rolex’s modern bezels, the stones are set horizontally, while they are vertically oriented on the Rolex Day-Date 218398, and having them set vertically creates a striking radial effect that mirrors the appearance of Rolex’s signature fluted bezels. While it is still very much a yellow-gold Rolex President, everything about the Day-Date ref. 218398 from its proportions right down to how the baguette diamonds are set into its bezel is different from what you get from the current-production Day-Date models.
Rolex Day-Date 128159RBR Diamond-Paved Case
Launched in 2021 as one of the brand’s exclusive off-catalog releases, the Rolex Day-Date 128159RBR represents one of the more flamboyant and unusual Day-Date models that has appeared in recent years. Featuring a 36mm case made from 18k white that is fully iced out in brilliant-cut diamonds, the reference 128159RBR is one of the strap-equipped versions of the Day-Date, and it features a case with diamond-set lug hoods that extend from under its bezel to fill the gap that would normally exist between the case and the strap. Unlike its yellow gold sibling that embraces a bright orange colorway (ref. 128158RBR), the Day-Date 128159RBR pairs its diamond-set white gold case with a bright turquoise leather strap, and it is completed by a matching diamond-paved dial with turquoise Roman numeral hour markers.
Just like all of Rolex’s highly luxurious off-catalog models, the Rolex Day-Date 128159RBR never appeared on the brand’s official website, and production of the watch was extremely limited, with allocation reserved exclusively for the company’s top VIP customers. Although Rolex has been getting increasingly adventurous with its designs in more recent years, the ref. 128159RBR still represents a rather significant departure compared to what most people normally associate with the brand’s historically conservative flagship collection. Additionally, while it almost looks like a custom piece born from the world of fashion and streetwear, the Day-Date 128159RBR was designed and manufactured this way entirely by Rolex, and that is exactly what makes this fully iced-out turquoise watch special.
Rolex Day-Date Masterpiece 18956 Meteorite Dial
Another option when it comes to interesting and unusual Rolex Day-Date models that aren’t accompanied by the collection’s standard President bracelet are the various Day-Date Masterpiece watches, which represent a significant departure compared to what you get from the standard lineup. Unlike all other Day-Date models, the Masterpiece references feature 39mm cases with diamond-set bezels, and they come paired with the rounded Pearlmaster bracelet to create a significantly different presence on the wrist. Among the more noteworthy Masterpiece models is the meteorite dial version of the Rolex Day-Date 18956, which is crafted entirely from solid platinum and fitted with a baguette diamond bezel.
At 39mm in diameter, the reference 18956 is significantly larger than the classic 36mm Day-Date, yet it is also slightly smaller than both the discontinued Day-Date II and the current full-size 40mm model. While its case proportions make the reference 18956 rather unique among the various Day-Date watches, the simple fact that it is paired with the discontinued Pearlmaster bracelet immediately sets it apart from the rest of the collection. Additionally, the meteorite dial fitted to the Rolex Day-Date Masterpiece 18956 features a rather unusual design, with small white gold Arabic numeral minute markers punctuated by two teardrop-shaped diamonds at 6 and 9 o'clock. Given that everything from its case size to its bracelet style is different from what you normally find throughout the collection, the reference 18956 is hardly the watch for the person who wants the quintessential Rolex Day-Date, although it is easily one of the more refined and unusual executions of the brand’s flagship dual-calendar wristwatch.