It is frequently said that God (or the Devil) is in the details, and when it comes to luxury watches, sometimes the smallest of details can account for enormous differences in value and collectibility. Seemingly insignificant variations between models such as the color of a dial or an additional line of text can make a world of difference to collectors, and this statement only becomes even more true when you look at mega-collectible timepieces such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus.
The popular saying, “If You Know, You Know” (IYKYK) applies to watches more than almost any other industry, and to the untrained eye, two seemingly identical models can be separated by hundreds of thousands of dollars in resale value. All Nautilus watches are instantly recognizable icons that rank among the most desirable and collectible timepieces in existence, although some variations of this model are exponentially more rare and special than others, and here is a closer look at the top 10 Patek Philippe Nautilus watches for IYKYK collectors.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Vintage Tiffany & Co. Steel Black Dial 3700/11
When most people think of the classic time-and-date Nautilus, it is the various contemporary references that first come to mind. However, the vintage examples of this fan-favorite model offer much of the same overall appearance, yet they are exponentially less common to see on the wrists of today’s collectors. The reference 3700 is the original version of the full-size Patek Philippe Nautilus that was produced between 1976 and 1990, and unlike modern versions of this model, the vintage Nautilus 3700 is a two-handed watch and lacks any type of running seconds indicator. Additionally, while the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 enjoyed a fairly long production run, the Nautilus itself wasn’t all that popular during this time, and Patek Philippe produced significantly fewer examples of the ref. 3700 compared to later iterations of the Nautilus like the reference 5711.
Getting into the minutia of this highly collectible vintage model, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 can be further divided into two series, with the ref. 3700/1 being the very first execution that was produced from approximately 1976 until 1982, while the ref. 3700/11 is the later version that arrived in 1982 and remained in production until the Nautilus 3700 was discontinued in 1990. Realistically speaking, the only significant difference between these two variations is the taper of their bracelets, and most collectors simply group all reference 3700 watches into the greater Nautilus 3700 category. Opting for a vintage Patek Philippe Nautilus over a modern example is already a fantastic way to increase the IYKYK status of your timepiece, although an even greater inside-baseball move is to get a vintage ref. 3700 that is fitted with a Tiffany & Co. dial.
Tiffany-signed Patek Philippe watches hold a cherished place within the hearts of collectors, as they can only be acquired from Tiffany & Co. boutiques, and the simple presence of a Tiffany stamp on the dial can result in a six-figure price difference between two otherwise identical models. When it comes to the mega-popular Patek Philippe Nautilus, choosing something like a Tiffany-signed example of the vintage ref. 3700/11 is about as IYKYK as it gets, and it functions as a subtle flex on two different levels for serious collectors, in addition to also being one of the most famous and recognizable luxury watches in the world.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Stainless Steel White Dial 5711/1A-011
Produced between 2006 and 2021, the reference 5711 is probably the first watch that comes to mind when most people think of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Over the course of the ref. 5711’s relatively long production run, the popularity (and value) of the Nautilus increased exponentially, and the classic stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 became the poster-child for luxury watches that were completely unavailable at a retail level due to overwhelming demand and the sky-high premiums that accompany them on the open market.
When most people think of the reference 5711, they probably picture the watch with its signature blue dial; however, Patek Philippe also produced a different version of the stainless steel Nautilus 5711 that features a crisp white dial paired with black-finished hands and hour markers. While a blue dial is one of the original options for the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the white dial ref. 5711/1A-011 was only produced between 2012 and 2019, and since the white dial never enjoyed quite the same levels of popularity as its blue counterpart, white dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011 watches exist in fewer numbers and are seldom spotted out in the wild.
Despite the fact that white dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011 watches are objectively more rare than their blue dial siblings, they are actually significantly less expensive, with the difference in open market prices consistently reaching well-into the five-figure territory. Although the white dial ref. 5711/1A-011 isn’t quite as recognizable or valuable, it is certainly the more unique offering, and even many die-hard collectors aren’t aware that this slightly off-beat version of the classic stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is actually the more elusive option, which provides it with all of the potential to become a future classic.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Two-Tone 5980/1AR-001
Originally launched in 2013 and quietly discontinued in 2024, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5980/1AR-001 holds the distinction of being the only two-tone version of the Nautilus Chronograph that has ever existed. Two-tone Patek Philippe Nautilus watches aren’t all that common in general, let alone one that pairs stainless steel with rose gold components. Additionally, now that the ref. 5980/1AR-001 has been discontinued, there aren’t any two-tone Nautilus models currently available in Patek Philippe’s catalog, and this makes the ref. 5980/1AR-001 stand out as somewhat of a unique offering within the brand’s modern history.
Just like other Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph watches, the two-tone ref. 5980/1AR-001 features a 40.5mm case, and it is paired with the collection’s signature integrated bracelet. However, from an aesthetic perspective, the reference 5980/1AR-001 represents somewhat of a mix between the stainless steel and rose gold versions of the Nautilus Chronograph, although it is arguably more unique than either of its single-alloy siblings. Both steel and rose gold versions of the Nautilus Chronograph are available in multiple different configurations, although the two-tone ref. 5980/1AR-001 only existed in a single form during the decade that it was part of Patek Philippe’s lineup, and now that the Nautilus Chronograph has been entirely replaced by the brand’s Travel Time Chronograph series, the two-tone ref. 5980/1AR-001 in stainless steel and rose gold stands out as one of the more unusual executions of this particular model.
Patek Philippe Nautilus White Gold Blue Dial 5811/1G-001
If briefly seen from across the room, you would be forgiven for mixing up the current-production Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5811/1G-001 with the discontinued ref. 5711/1A from the previous generation; however, these two models are ultimately very different timepieces. After Patek Philippe disconnected the fan-favorite reference 5711 in 2021, everyone wondered what would replace it as the full-size version of the classic time-and-date Nautilus. The answer to that question came one year later in 2022, when the brand unveiled the reference 5811/1G-001, which is both slightly larger than its predecessor and crafted entirely from 18k white gold.
With a case diameter of 41mm, the white gold Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001 represents only a one-millimeter increase in size compared to the previous generation of time-and-date models, and it is even powered by the same Caliber 26-330 S C automatic movement that was used inside the ref. 5711 series for the last couple of years that it remained part of the brand’s catalog. With that in mind, the ref. 5811/1G-001 actually features a different case architecture that more closely adheres to the design of the original Nautilus from the 1970s, and the simple fact that both its case and bracelet are made entirely from 18k white gold means that the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G-001 will offer a noticeably different presence on the wrist. Even an avid watch enthusiast might struggle to identify this model as the current-production white gold version of the time-and-date Nautilus, although for the person who is wearing it, the weight of white gold will serve as an ever-present reminder that they have the premium version of Patek Philippe’s single most famous design.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Tiffany & Co. Dial 5740/1G-001
Given that it is the most technologically complex version of the Nautilus that Patek Philippe currently produces, the reference 5740/1G-001 undeniably looks quite a bit different than its standard time-and-date siblings. That said, aside from having a trio of sub-dials with a moon phase display, there isn’t anything about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740/1G-001 that immediately gives away its ultra-premium nature, although everything about this watch from its materials to its movement is a step above what you will find on the brand’s base-level Nautilus models. While the ref. 5740/1G-001 is immediately recognizable as being one of Patek Philippe’s signature integrated bracelet sports watches, it does take a bit of knowledge to fully understand the nuances of this particular model and appreciate why this version of the Nautilus is so highly regarded among collectors.
Just like many of the standard time-and-date models, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740/1G-001 features a 40mm case that is paired with the collection’s signature integrated bracelet. However, rather than being made from humble stainless steel, both the case and bracelet are crafted entirely from 18k white gold. In many ways, this watch can be seen as the ultimate expression of the quintessential Nautilus, and while you still get a blue dial with a white-colored metal for its external components, this solid gold Nautilus Perperual Calendar offers one of horology’s most prestigious complications wrapped up inside a precious metal exterior. Additionally, for an extra level of IYKYK collectibility, examples of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G-001 can be found with Tiffany & Co. dials, and having this small additional signature can be worth a six-figure difference in resale value.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph White Dial 5980/1A-019
White dial Patek Philippe Nautilus watches are frequently overlooked by collectors, and this ultimately results in them being both less common and less expensive than their otherwise identical counterparts that are fitted with black or blue dials. Only produced for two short years between 2012 and 2014, the reference 5980/1A-019 is the white dial version of the stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph, and while it is hardly the most recognizable rendition of the brand’s signature sports watch, it remains somewhat of a sleeper that is free from much of the hype that typically surrounds the Nautilus collection.
From a design and functionality standpoint, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5980/1A-019 is more-or-less identical to its stainless steel siblings that are fitted with black or blue dials, and this means that you get the same 40.5mm case paired with a matching stainless steel integrated bracelet. Although the Nautilus Chronograph was discontinued and replaced by the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph series, a white dial doesn’t exist as an option among the current-production lineup, and since the white dial ref. 5980/1A-019 was only available for a small window of time, it is somewhat surprising that you can find examples of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5980/1A-019 priced at tens of thousands of dollars less than their blue dial equivalents. Given that white is one of the most common dial colors, many people would assume that white dial Nautilus watches would be relatively common, although only serious Patek Philippe collectors are going to know that the brand only produced the Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A-019 for two short years, and it is actually one of the more seldom-seen executions of the model.
Patek Philippe Nautilus White Gold 3711/1
At a quick glance, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3711/1 looks nearly identical to the famous stainless steel reference 5711, although everything about this model makes it an entirely more auspicious offering. Technically speaking, the Nautilus 3711/1 should actually be considered the precursor to the ref. 5711, as it first debuted in 2004, which is two years prior to the 2006 launch of the Nautilus 5711. However, while the familiar ref. 5711 enjoyed a fairly long production run, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3711/1 only remained part of the brand’s catalog for a few short years, before being discontinued completely by 2007.
While its short production run inherently makes the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3711/1 a rather rare timepiece, it is also a significantly more luxurious offering that truly embraces the concept of stealth wealth. To the uninitiated, the Nautilus 3711/1 may look like a regular stainless steel timepiece, although the entirety of its case and bracelet are crafted from solid 18k white gold. Additionally, rather than being fitted with a blue dial like the quintessential version of the time-and-date Nautilus, the white gold Nautilus 3711/1 receives a black dial with the collection’s signature horizontal ribbed motif, and this subtly helps separate it from the infinitely more common ref. 5711.
All things considered, there are significantly less expensive Nautilus models that will provide an incredibly similar overall aesthetic, but in the theme of IYKYK options, the white gold Patek Philippe Nautilus 3711/1 is the true definition of a quiet and understated flex that is only going to be understood by serious collectors. Most people never expect that the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3711/1 is a solid gold watch, and even dedicated watch enthusiasts will be hard-pressed to distinguish this model from its similar-looking stainless steel counterparts when viewed from more than a few feet away. However, the weight of 18k gold is always going to be immediately apparent on the wrist, and the reference 3711/1 represents one of the most rare and subtle variations of the classic time-and-date Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 40th Anniversary Limited Edition 5976/1G-001
Launched in 2016 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, the Patek Philippe reference 5976/1G-001 was produced as a limited edition of 1,300 examples, and it is essentially an oversized version of the Nautilus Chronograph that is crafted entirely from 18k white gold and paired with a diamond-set dial. Although the Nautilus Chronograph itself is no longer in production and has since been entirely replaced by the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph within Patek Philippe’s modern catalog, the limited-edition 40th Anniversary ref. 5976/1G-001 stands out as one of the more unusual variations, although it really must be admired up close before its nuisances can be fully appreciated.
Rather than measuring 40.5mm like the standard Nautilus Chronograph, the case of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 40th Anniversary Limited Edition ref. 5976/1G-001 comes in at a whopping 44mm in diameter, which makes it the largest version of the Nautilus that has ever been put forward. Additionally, just like many other Nautilus models, the dial fitted to the 40th Anniversary ref. 5976/1G-001 is blue with horizontal lines engraved into its surface; however, its baton-shaped hour markers have been replaced by baguette-cut diamonds, and it also features a subtle “1976-40-2016” embossing to denote the landmark anniversary. At a quick glance, the ref. 5976/1G-001 may just look like a super-sized version of the Nautilus Chronograph, although there are a number of details that are unique to this solid white gold anniversary piece, and it is actually one of the more unusual executions of Patek Philippe’s fan-favorite sports model.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Stainless Steel Green Dial 5711/1A-014
Over the years, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has absolutely exploded in terms of value and collectibility, although right when the reference 5711 was at peak-desirability, Patek Philippe announced that it would be discontinuing the Nautilus 5711 entirely at the end of 2021. However, as a final farewell to this fan-favorite model, Patek Philippe decided to create a highly exclusive olive green dial version of the Nautilus ref. 5711 that was produced for less than a single year and virtually unattainable to everyone except the brand’s most valued customers.
While the green dial Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 broke the internet when it was first announced, Patek Philippe explicitly stated that this swan-song to the Nautilus 5711 would only be available for less than a single year, and it would be discontinued with the rest of the Nautilus 5711 series at the end of 2021. Entirely unexpected and extremely exclusive, the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 is essentially just a normal stainless steel ref. 5711 that is fitted with a dark green dial, although due to the widespread popularity of the Nautilus and the inherently rare nature of this particular variation, prices for the green dial Nautilus 5711 are approximately three times the cost of their standard blue dial siblings.
When viewed in dim lighting, it is easy to mistake the green Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 for one of the blue dial examples of the ref. 5711, and from a purely functional standpoint, the two watches are entirely identical. Only watch enthusiasts are going to know the significance of a green Nautilus 5711; however, “if you know, you know” (as the saying goes), and the simple presence of a green dial makes the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 an entirely more special timepiece and one of the most rare and elusive versions of the classic stainless steel time-and-date Nautilus.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Tiffany & Co. Blue Dial 5711/1A-018
When Patek Philippe launched the green dial version of the reference 5711 as a farewell to this mega-popular model in 2021, it was assumed that the green dial iteration would be the most rare and exclusive variation of the classic stainless steel Nautilus 5711 that would ever be produced. However, at the very end of the year, Patek Philippe surprised everyone and announced an insanely exclusive limited-edition version of the fan-favorite stainless steel Nautilus ref. 5711 that takes the concept of a Tiffany & Co. dial to a whole new level.
Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. have an incredibly long-standing relationship that dates all the way back to 1851, and as a tribute to this historic partnership, Patek Philippe created the reference 5711/1A-018, which is a classic stainless steel Nautilus 5711 that is fitted with a Tiffany-signed dial that appears in the iconic Tiffany & Co. Blue color. Produced as a limited edition of 170 examples as a tribute to the 170-year partnership between these two legendary luxury brands, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-018 was exclusively available from Tiffany & Co. boutiques and was only offered to its highest tier of VIP customers. With that in mind, a single example of the Tiffany & Co. Nautilus 5711/1A-018 was auctioned for charity in December 2021, and the final hammer price for this ultra-rare and desirable model came in at a whopping $6.5 million.
The Tiffany & Co. Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 is hardly a subtle flex, and the instantly-recognizable Tiffany Blue color of its dial combined with the mega-famous case silhouette of the Nautilus makes it a model that truly stands out among all other Patek Philippe watches. Between its prominent Tiffany & Co. branding and its positioning as the ultimate horological status symbol among A-list celebrities, even those without any interest in watches may recognize this particular model as being something rather special. However, only true enthusiasts are going to fully understand just how unique the Tiffany & Co. Nautilus 5711/1A-018 really is within the greater context of Patek Philippe, and why a different color of dial can ultimately be worth millions of dollars to collectors.