While Audemars Piguet is synonymous with its signature Royal Oak collection, it is the iconic “Jumbo” that is most emblematic of the famous Swiss manufacturer. With that in mind, the Jumbo has existed ever since the Royal Oak collection first debuted in 1972, and in addition to evolving throughout the years, it has also been produced in a variety of different executions. This means the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo isn’t just a singular model, and the “Jumbo” moniker instead applies to a wide assortment of different watches that span everything from traditional time-and-date models made from stainless steel to skeletonized versions that are crafted from solid gold.
What is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo?
In the most simple of terms, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is the traditional full-size 39mm version of the brand’s famous integrated bracelet sports watch. However, that is largely the extent of the similarities between the different Jumbo watches, and since the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo has existed for more than half a century, multiple different generations of the standard Jumbo exist. Additionally, the brand has created countless executions that have been crafted from various materials and fitted with different styles of dials, plus there have even been skeletonized versions of the Jumbo that forego dials entirely and showcase their highly open-worked movements.
When the Royal Oak collection first debuted in 1972, it made its inaugural appearance in the now-famous 39mm Jumbo format. However, it’s important to note that the “Jumbo” moniker was originally just an informal designation used within the collecting community to distinguish the classic full-size models from the smaller versions of the Royal Oak that appeared later that decade. The 39mm sizing of the original Royal Oak was necessary due to the diameter of its movement and the water-resistant construction of its case, and since 39mm was considered to be fairly large for wristwatches of the era, the model picked up the “Jumbo” nickname, which was later officially adopted by the brand and now used formally within its catalog.
With that in mind, not all 39mm Royal Oak watches are considered “Jumbo” models, and in addition to the standard time-and-date references, there have also been perpetual calendar variants, along with the short-lived Royal Oak Date watches that also featured a 39mm case diameter but were thicker in profile and powered by three-handed automatic movements with central running seconds hands. That said, even among the traditional Jumbo lineup, there have still been many variations, and due to the numerous different watches that have been based upon this format, the “Jumbo” name now simply refers to an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that adheres to the traditional extra-thin 39mm sizing of the original model.
About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo
Famously created by the legendary watch designer Gerald Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak first appeared in 1972, and it is widely considered to be the genesis of the luxury-oriented integrated bracelet sports watch. Inspired by the appearance of vintage diving helmets, Genta designed the Royal Oak to be a versatile sports model that could also exist in more formal settings, and since it was a stainless steel time-and-date watch that cost more than many complex gold pieces of the era, it also needed to have a bold and statement-worthy design. Today, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is celebrated as one of the most important designs in watchmaking, and the Jumbo stands out as the quintessential version that represents Genta’s original vision for the model.
While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is easily the most famous version of the brand’s iconic sports watch and is now available in a wide variety of different executions, it wasn’t always the flagship model, and for a brief period of time before the Jumbo’s rebirth in the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet even discontinued the classic 39mm time-and-date Royal Oak Jumbo. Additionally, it is important to note that despite its “Jumbo” name, the 39mm Royal Oak is no longer the biggest model in the Royal Oak collection, and there are now numerous different watches with larger 41mm cases. However, because the “Jumbo” nickname originated long before the brand introduced the larger 41mm series, the classic 39mm models are ultimately the ones that are now universally known as Royal Oak Jumbo watches.
The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo
The history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is as old as the collection itself, as it was this 39mm format that first introduced the world to Gerald Genta’s creation back when it originally debuted in 1972. The very first Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the reference 5402, and with its octagonal case, exposed bezel screws, and angular integrated bracelet, it immediately stood out from the rest of the Swiss manufacturer’s catalog. Additionally, with its 39mm case diameter, the Royal Oak was also larger than many other watches of the era, although its now-famous “Jumbo” moniker didn’t really become established until smaller versions of the Royal Oak became available and collectors needed a shorthand way to distinguish between the different models.
While a bold and groundbreaking design was a requirement for the Royal Oak collection, the size of the model was largely mandated by its case architecture and the diameter of its movement, and when smaller calibers became available later that decade, Audemars Piguet created more compact versions of its signature integrated bracelet sports watch. During the second half of the 1970s and throughout most of the 1980s, Audemars Piguet increased its focus on the smaller versions of the Royal Oak that had been added to the collection, with the 36mm models taking over as the flagship options within the lineup. By the end of the 1980s, the Jumbo was no longer the centerpiece of the Royal Oak collection and the ref. 5402 was finally discontinued after nearly two decades of continuous production.
With that in mind, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo’s absence from the catalog was fairly short-lived, and just two years after leaving the lineup, the Jumbo returned in the form of the “Jubilee” ref. 14802 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the collection in 1992. While the Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 14802 was powered by the same Cal. 2121 automatic movement as the original ref. 5402 that first debuted in the early 1970s, this anniversary model was produced as a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, and it featured an updated case design with a display-style caseback to showcase its self-winding movement and special anniversary-edition rotor.
The same year that Audemars Piguet created the Jubilee-version of the Jumbo, the brand also started producing premium Royal Oak models that would often feature skeletonized displays, engravings, or gemstones, and since these watches relied on the Cal. 2120 movement (the no-date version of the Cal. 2121), they also adhered to the 39mm Jumbo format. Production of these models was extremely limited, with some created as piece-unique offerings, and they were manufactured sporadically throughout most of the 1990s until the next generation of the Royal Oak Jumbo arrived at the end of the decade.
After the 100 pieces of the Jubilee-edition ref. 14802 were completely sold out, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15002 in 1996, and unlike the limited-edition ref. 14802 that featured a display caseback, the new ref. 15002 was based upon the core design of the ref. 5402 with a solid caseback covering its movement. With that in mind, unlike the original ref. 5402, the updated ref. 15002 had its “AP” dial signature applied to the upper half of the display at the 12 o’clock location, and it only remained in production for a handful of years before getting phased out and replaced by the next generation of the Royal Oak Jumbo at the very end of the 1990s.
To usher in the new millennium, Audemars Piguet released a new generation of Jumbo watches, and this model would go on to remain in production for more than two decades, ultimately becoming the quintessential example of the Royal Oak. Formally presented in 2000, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202 featured a display-style caseback like the Jubilee model, and it was even powered by the same Cal. 2121 movement that had been used inside Royal Oak Jumbo watches since the collection’s inception in 1972. While the original ref. 15202 was offered in stainless steel and yellow gold, a rose gold version joined the lineup in 2006, and Audemars Piguet also created a number of limited editions within the series over the course of the next decade.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202 would remain in production until the brand announced in 2021 that it would be discontinuing the fan-favorite model at the end of the year. Shortly after the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary, its mainstream popularity skyrocketed, and the Jumbo lineup grew with skeletonized models, a limited-edition platinum version, and even bi-metallic variants that paired titanium with either platinum or a palladium-based bulk metallic glass. Despite the numerous different iterations and diverse use of materials, the Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202 was still powered by the tried-and-true Cal. 2121, and it would not be until the current generation of the Jumbo that the legendary model would receive an all-new movement.
After announcing that it would be discontinuing the long-running reference 15202 in 2021, Audemars Piguet released a new generation of the Jumbo to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the model in 2022. From an aesthetic perspective, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 16202 largely maintains the design of the original ref. 5402 watches, although the most significant update accompanying this generation pertains to its movement, which is the all-new Cal. 7121 that offers superior performance metrics compared to the JLC-based Cal. 2121 that had powered all previous generations of the Royal Oak Jumbo. In addition to the standard stainless steel version of the model, Audemars Piguet now also produces Jumbo ref. 16202 watches in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, along with skeletonized models that are also based on the current reference 16202 platform.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Key Features
- Model Name: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo
- Nickname: “Jumbo”
- Years of Production: 1972 - Present
- Materials: Stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, two-tone (steel + gold), platinum, titanium, platinum with titanium, and titanium with bulk metallic glass
- Case Size: 39mm
- Functionality: Hours, minutes (date display on select non-skeleton models)
- Bezel: Fixed (vertical brushed or gem-set)
- Dials: Black, white, blue, gray, gold, salmon, red, green, diamond-paved, or open-worked
- Hands: Baton-style (luminous inlays on standard-production models)
- Crystal: Sapphire (flat)
- Movement: Cal. 2120, Cal. 2121, Cal. 7121, or Cal. 7124 (automatic winding)
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
- Strap/Bracelet: Integrated bracelet w/ folding clasp
- Retail Price (2024): Starting at $36,000 USD (ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02)
Different Types of Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
While the “Jumbo” name itself signifies an extra-thin Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch with a 39mm case diameter, the brand has produced this fan-favorite model in multiple different materials, along with both time-and-date and skeletonized time-only configurations.
Stainless Steel Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
Stainless steel is the quintessential material for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection, and every generation of the 39mm Jumbo has been available in this classic and utilitarian alloy. Royal Oak Jumbo watches that are crafted from stainless steel will have the letters “ST” attached to their reference numbers, meaning that the ref. 5402ST is the stainless steel version of the original Jumbo from the 1970s, while the ref. 16202ST is the current-production Royal Oak Jumbo that is crafted from stainless steel.
Gold Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
Gold is the second most common material used for Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches, and the brand has produced gold Jumbo watches since the late 1970s, with examples appearing in all three shades of 18k gold. Yellow gold Royal Oak Jumbo watches will have the letters “BA” attached to the end of their reference numbers, while the material code “BC” is used for the white gold models, and the letters “OR” denote the rose gold Jumbo watches. The modern Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 16202 is currently available in all three colors of gold, so the ref. 16202BA is the yellow gold example, the ref. 16202BC is the white gold version, and the ref. 16202OR is the rose gold model, with all three iterations featuring the same 39mm “Jumbo” case profile.
Platinum Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
While the majority of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches are crafted from either stainless steel or 18k gold, the brand has also produced ultra-exclusive platinum versions throughout the collection’s history. Platinum Royal Oak Jumbo watches use the letters “PT” as their material code, so the ref. 14802PT would be the platinum version of the Jubilee-edition Jumbo from the 1990s, while the ref. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01 is the platinum version of the current-production Jumbo with a green gradient dial that was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection.
Bi-Metallic Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
In addition to producing solid gold versions of the Royal Oak Jumbo, Audemars Piguet also introduced bi-metallic versions in the late 1970s that paired stainless steel with yellow gold. Two-tone Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches in steel and gold will have the letter “SA” attached to their reference numbers, meaning that the ref. 5402SA is the bi-metallic version of the original Royal Oak Jumbo. Additionally, the brand also produced bi-metallic Jumbo watches that embraced a monochromatic aesthetic by pairing titanium with either platinum or bulk metallic glass. The titanium and platinum Royal Oak Jumbo from 2018 uses the letters “IP” to denote is bi-metallic composition, while the titanium and bulk metallic glass model launched in 2023 uses the letters “XT” for its material code.
Open-Worked Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
In addition to the standard time-and-date Jumbo watches that are regarded as the quintessential examples of the Royal Oak Jumbo, Audemars Piguet has also produced skeletonized models based upon the 39mm Jumbo format that showcase their mechanics with open-worked movements. The first skeletonized Royal Oak Jumbo watches appeared in the early 1990s, although the open-worked Jumbo models really started to increase their presence in the years following the 40th anniversary of the series, and they now occupy the role of core-collection offerings. With that in mind, these open-worked Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches have different reference numbers, so while the ref. 16202OR is the standard rose gold Jumbo from the current lineup, the ref. 16204OR is the rose gold skeletonized model.
Generations of Royal Oak Jumbo Watches
While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has existed for over half a century and has been produced in a wide variety of different executions, all of the various Royal Oak Jumbo references can be grouped into four distinct generations.
Royal Oak ref. 5402
The reference 5402 is the first generation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo that made its debut appearance in 1972 and remained part of the brand’s catalog until 1990. While the very first ref. 5402 watches were crafted from stainless steel, the yellow gold, white gold, and two-tone models were added to the lineup in 1977, and all of the different versions of the ref. 5402 were powered by the JLC-based Caliber 2121 automatic movement. Additionally, due to its relatively long production run and the multiple different case materials that were used throughout the series, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 5402 watches can be found with a variety of different dial colors, including blue, gold, black, gray, and even some with gem-set hour markers.
Royal Oak ref. 14802 and ref. 15002
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 14802 and ref. 15002 were both relatively short-lived offerings, with the ref. 14802 released as a limited-edition anniversary piece in 1992, while the ref. 15002 was only produced for a handful of years between 1996 and 1999. Both of these models were powered by the same Cal. 2121 movement that was used inside the previous series of Royal Oak Jumbo watches, and despite their fairly short production runs, this generation was produced in stainless steel, 18k gold, and platinum. Additionally, while they were only part of Audemars Piguet’s catalog for a short amount of time, these models ultimately represent an important step in the history of the Royal Oak Jumbo, and many collectors consider them to be transitional models that sit between the inaugural ref. 5402 and the more contemporary ref. 15202.
Royal Oak ref. 15202
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202 is arguably the most famous generation of the model, and it enjoyed a fairly long production period that ran from 1999 until 2022. While the ref. 15202 was still powered by the same JLC-based Cal. 2121 movement that had been used inside the Royal Oak collection since its inaugural appearance in 1972, this generation benefitted from an updated case architecture with a display-style caseback like the Jubilee-edition Jumbo model from 1992. Due to its long production run and its flagship positioning within the brand’s catalog, the Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202 was produced in a wide variety of different executions, including examples crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, titanium, and platinum.
Royal Oak ref. 16202
Launched in 2022 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 16202 is the current-production version of the model that is powered by the brand’s Caliber 7121 movement. For the first year that the generation was in production, all of the different models from the ref. 16202 series were fitted with special 50th anniversary rotors, and despite being in production for a fairly short amount of time, Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 16202 watches can be found in a wide variety of different executions, including examples crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, platinum, and even a bi-metallic version that is made from titanium and bulk metallic glass.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Price Information
As of May 2024, the official retail price for the entry-level stainless steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02 is $36,000. However, the Jumbo is Audemars Piguet’s single most famous watch, and due to the extreme popularity of the model and its relatively limited output, all examples of the Royal Oak Jumbo trade hands on the open market for values that are significantly greater than the retail prices of their current-production counterparts.
For the most part, the least expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches are stainless steel examples from the previous generation, with prices for the white dial ref. 15202ST starting out at approximately $50,000. With that in mind, the color of the dial can have a significant impact on the open-market value of a Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202ST, and the blue dial examples from this same generation can often be worth a five-figure premium over their otherwise identical counterparts that are fitted with white dials.
Generally speaking, the most expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo watches are the skeletonized models and the versions with cases crafted from platinum or titanium and bulk metallic glass. While these ultra-exclusive Jumbo models already cost nearly six figures at retail, they trade hands on the open market for significant premiums, and they can be priced anywhere between $150,000 and $400,000. That said, exceptionally rare or important examples can often be outliers when it comes to pricing, and watches such as the second-ever ref. 5402ST that was presented at the 1972 Basel Fair or Gerald Genta’s very own custom Royal Oak Jumbo have been known to sell for prices that reach well into the millions of dollars.
Today, the integrated bracelet sports watch is one of the pillars of the modern horological landscape, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is often credited with being the grandfather of this highly popular category of timepieces. Bold and distinct, the Royal Oak is one of the most recognizable watches ever created, and the fact that its core appearance has remained largely unchanged for over half a century is a testament to the timeless nature of its design. While the Royal Oak collection now includes a vast assortment of different models that span everything from perpetual calendars to chronographs, the Jumbo is the quintessential example of Audemars Piguet’s iconic integrated bracelet watch, and it will forever represent Gerald Genta’s original vision for what is often considered to be his single greatest creation.